Opinion: What Vancouver can learn from Santiago: Vancouver Courier October 8, 2014

“Where are you from?” the bartender asked me.

“Vancouver,” I replied.

“Did you know it was voted most livable city in the world in 2004?” he asked.

I was impressed he might know this, although wondered if it was true in 2004.

“But we’re no longer number one,” I told him. “I think it’s now Vienna or Zurich. Have you been there?”

“No, but one day I hope to move there,” he told me as he went off to get my pisco sour.

I was in Providencia, one of Santiago Chile’s upscale neighbourhoods. I had been invited there by Ciudad Viva, a local NGO researching what makes certain urban spaces attractive and popular.

In collaboration with the School of Architecture at the Catholic University, they had been studying three well-known retail areas including La Vega, the city’s sprawling wholesale and retail public market.

The study team wanted me, along with a professor of architecture from Barcelona, to provide international perspectives on their initial findings.

I shared with them an idea I first heard from a West Vancouver resident who had been participating in a neighbourhood planning study.

Sometimes a place has to change if it wants to stay the same. However, planners and designers must be careful not to alter the character and qualities that brought people there in the first place. I thought this might be particularly true for their aging La Vega market.

 

I shared with the study team the challenges facing the Granville Island public market. For many years it had been a favourite place for Vancouver residents to shop. However, over the years, the market attracted so many tourists, local residents were increasingly discouraged from shopping there.

The situation was exacerbated by new supermarket designs. When the Granville Island public market first opened, there was no Urban Fare, Nesters or Choices. Today these supermarkets offer many of the qualities and amenities of a public market and are forcing Granville Island’s administration to rebrand its facility to bring back the local shoppers who made it so popular in the first place.

While Santiago could learn from Vancouver, we could also learn from Santiago. During my one week stay, I observed a number of ideas that might be transferred to our city. As many visitors and Chileans now living here well know, Santiago has a lot of taxis, reportedly more than New York City.

But it also has serious traffic congestion problems that it has been trying to address by building new roads and freeways under the city.  It has also been making some effective improvements to its public transit system, especially the buses.

One of the things I noticed is the buses quickly pick up and drop off passengers through front, middle and back doors. They can do this since at busy bus stops, passengers pay at the platform before getting on the bus, by tapping their electronic transit cards. Other South American cities employ a similar approach. Hopefully Vancouver’s transit system will too, one day.

I enjoyed Santiago’s busy Metro subway system. It is surprisingly clean and many of the stations are very beautiful. I sometimes got off at stops just to see the creative station designs and artwork. I never do this in Vancouver.

I was also delighted by the city’s wide sidewalks. I was told in some instances roads had been narrowed to make the sidewalks wider and in turn accommodate outdoor restaurant seating and licensed and “informal” street vendors.

Throughout Santiago there is an abundance of public art. Fascinating pieces of sculpture can be seen along streets and in parks. There are also murals everywhere. While some are little more than elaborate graffiti, others are quite extraordinary and form part of a business and restaurant design.

While Santiago is struggling to accommodate an increasing number of cyclists, many of whom ride on the sidewalks, I often saw large secure bike storage facilities near Metro stations and shopping areas.

More taxis, better bus loading, wider sidewalks, more public art and secure bike storage: these are just a few of the things, along with pisco sours, that Vancouver should emulate from this fascinating South American city.

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A trip around Santiago

Whenever I go to a city, I try to take a narrated hop-on and hop-off bus tour to explore the sites. While it was not necessary in Santiago since I had wonderful guides from the Catholic University, I had a couple of free hours one afternoon and decided to explore the city on the Turistik bus. I think it was one of the best narrated tours I have taken, and I have been on dozens over the years.(Istanbul and Athens were two of the worst!)

I realized this tour might be special when I was provided with a bracelet to wear throughout the day. While I was disappointed it wasn't good for 24 hours (which is often the case in other cities), the bracelet was a very professional approach compared to the fragile tickets one usually receives. Here are some of the stops on the tour.

Plaza de Armas-the historic centre of the city- was the first stop. According to the guide program, when the Spaniards established cities they used the main square as the centre of the planning axis. While some of the significant nearby public buildings are undergoing renovation,
I was surprised other privately owned commercial buildings near the square had been allowed to become quite rundown. I was told this was the result of new office and retail developments moving away from the downtown.

Sadly, many of Santiago's significant older buildings have been destroyed by earthquakes and fires over the years. However, one remaining 18th century structure is Casa Colorada, which today  houses the Santiago museum. I went inside only to discover it is closed for renovations.
However, I was disappointed to see a large overbearing structure had been built next door, dominating the central space.
I must say I was often disappointed by the juxtaposition of old and new developments around the older part of the city. The architects had obviously never heard the Arthur Erickson speech about the importance of relating new buildings to their surroundings, even if their surroundings are going to change.
The immediate area includes a network of vibrant pedestrian streets that were full of people. Based on what has happened in other cities, I predict that in years to come, this area will regain some of the glamor and glory it had centuries ago.
The Mercado Central building has had an interesting history. It was initially planned as an exhibit hall for artists but subsequently converted to a public market. Like many markets around the world, today it contains more tourist oriented activities and restaurants, since the main market is across the river at La Vega.
Plaza de la Constitucion is home to the 18th century Moneda Palace, the presidential headquarters, and other important government building.
Santa Lucia hill is a most significant historic location in the city.  My guides from the School of Architecture Karin and Marie Jose took me there on my first day, where I sampled a most unusual local drink featuring a whole apricot.
It was quite a climb up, but offered an interesting view of city skyline dominated by what looked like 70's apartment and office towers. I was told many were newer....they just looked older. A better view is provided by a funicular that unfortunately has been out of service for some time.

Providencia is the upscale neighbourhood where I stayed. Its origins are tied to Canada since the sisters of the Divine Providence arrived in Chile from Canada at the mid 19th century. Apparently they had initially set out for Portland Oregon, but that's another story.

Sanhattan  (the name mixes Santiago and Manhattan) is the city's impressive new financial and hotel district. It has been developing since the 1990's in a location that's closer to the city's east side where the business executives who live. There is also a golf course nearby.

Parque Arauco is considered Chile's most important mall, although MallPlaza is the largest developer of mall properties in the country. Like many of the city's shopping malls, it features a high level of recreational activities including theatres, bowling, ice-skating, etc.

Patio Bellavista is located in Bellavista, a very lively part of the city. Here one finds the zoo, the funicular, and a number of museums, theatres, restaurants and pubs. I was impressed with the number of museums around the city. Compare that with Vancouver.

I previously had lunch at Patio Bellavista which at one time was going to be a couple of highrise buildings. However, some local community acitivists (one of whom came from Toronto and with whom I had dinner) opposed it and it is now a lively mix of 90 restaurants, shops, hotel, and bars.

I found it interesting that Santiago's mall developers have not yet discovered what Vancouver developers have recently discovered, namely that retail malls are a great location for higher density housing. But this too will come.

While there is much Santiago can learn from Vancouver, there is much Vancouver can learn from this South American city. I wrote about some of these things in a Vancouver Courier column, which will be reprinted in a subsequent post.

Santiago Chile is not what you think it is if you haven't been here!

Yes, those are the Andes in the background

When I spent 9 months travelling the world in 2007 I got to Brazil, Argentina and Peru, but didn't have enough time for a tour of Chile. But based on the Chilean people we know in Vancouver, I knew I would eventually get here.

I got the opportunity as a result of an invitation from Maria Elena Ducci of Ciudad Viva, a NGO based in Santiago. http://www.ciudadviva.cl/ She got my name from a colleague in Toronto who was a friend of a friend. At any rate, I'm glad she did.

I've spent the week advising on a project they are undertaking that is looking at what makes three retail developments in the city successful urban places. One is La Vega public market http://www.saveur.com/article/Travels/Saveur-100-La-Vega-Santiago; one is an older shopping mall developed by MallPlaza; and the third is a shopping area in Providencia, an upscale mixed use neighbourhood where I am staying.

During the course of the past week I have been shown around by some very bright, interesting students, made a couple of presentations at two universities, and explored a variety of neighbourhoods. I have a good appreciation of the city's contrasts, noting you can't see that much of a city with a population of 5 million in a week.

So here are some of my photo albums. Hopefully they convey a very busy place, with a lot of run down areas that shouldn't be run down; as well as some very beautiful, sophisticated, affluent places.

It's a city experiencing incredible auto congestion, but one where cycling is starting to become more popular. Helmets are mandatory in Chile, but few wear them. There are few bike paths, but lots of bike storage facilities at shopping centres, transit hubs, and outside department stores.

The people strike me as being very warm, and greet one another, including strangers with a kiss on the cheek. Suffice it to say, I was a bit startled when one of my students so greeted me on my first morning. As I told her professor, in Canada, teachers get fired for lessor things than that!

We're in great company. Now why do we charge Chileans to visit Canada?

To use the new public toilet in La Vega market...a pretty rough area, you scan the barcode on your $300 ticket (about 55 cents)

Saw this bicycle storage facility at a major shopping centre

This is a city of art and culture. Lots of museums, murals and sculptures. I liked this piece on a sound wall barrier

This shopping centre addition is as beautiful as anything I have seen in Canada. Though at the moment it's not that busy, when compared to other parts of the same mall.

The search for sustainability has arrived in Santiago. Lots of green walls and |LEED certified developments, though not in comparison to Vancouver

The School of Architecture at the Catholic University where Maria Elena teaches and where I hung out for a few days

There aren't flowers everywhere like this, but they were here...

A new bicycle storage facility near the metro, near a shopping centre. I was told that eventually someone can use their transit card to lock their bike. (This needs to be verified)

The street on which my hotel is located...with some very special street trees

Hotel Orly, a highly rated small boutique hotel. Very welcoming, cozy, nice common areas, but I suspect some rooms are nicer than others.

I should have known what this symbol meant, but still had to ask!

A 42 km riverfront walkway/bikeway is underway. It will be an improvement

La Vega market...

Santa Lucia, built by a Mayor in the late 19th C by enlisting 150 prisoners. (I think there's an idea there...)

The view of a portion of the older downtown from Santa Lucia....there is a new downtown that is more beautiful than Vancouver's

One of the few bike lanes that I saw on the road...

Just three of the many remarkable people I have met over the past week. Thanks to all of you.

The sad saga of American Airlines flight 945 and my BC Ice Wine!

As it happens, the flight was again rescheduled to 9:00 AM since the crew was re-assigned to another aircraft.

Given some recent Malaysian Airlines disasters, I guess one shouldn't complain about a flight that makes it to its destination. However, my recent flight to Santiago on American Airlines was much more eventful than I would have liked. For one thing, the flight was delayed 11 hours and 45 minutes. For another, the delay resulted in the confiscation of 3 bottles of ice-wine which I purchased at YVR by US security customs in Dallas.

I share the story in the hope it will serve as a warning to others.

I could have understood if the American Airlines flight was delayed because of technical problems. But that wasn't the reason. According to the announcement by the AA Counter Agent, the flight was delayed because the crew had been transferred to another plane. Moreover, I was told privately by another AA agent, and a passenger on the plane, this was not the first time this had happened on flights to Santiago.

If I was the Chilean Ambassador to the US, I would want to know how many times this happens.

What was also disturbing was the announcement that hotel rooms were limited, and there was no assurance that everyone would get a place to stay. This prompted me to email the airport Hyatt, which had plenty of rooms. When I inquired why I could not stay there, I was told American Airlines did not have an arrangement with Hyatt. I booked a room anyway, and was glad I did when I was told cots were being set up by airline officials! While American Airlines did offer me a $100 coupon towards another flight, this was less than half of the cost of the room.

The next morning I arrived at the airport with a priority booking ticket that included pre-screening by TSA. However, since it was the next day I had to go through full security and when I showed officials the box set of 3 bottles of ice-wine, each sealed in security plastic bags, I was told I couldn't take this on the plane. I assured them that it met all the requirements and had been assured by the duty free store in Vancouver it could be transferred to another flight.

One of the three bottles of BC Ice Wine, each individually sealed in security bags in Vancouver, that was eventually confiscated by US security in Dallas.

Eventually security cut open the bags, and inserted the wine in a scanner, only to report that each bottle prompted a warning. Again I was told I could not take it on the flight. I asked for a supervisor.

She also told me that the wine could not go on the plane. I accepted this, but asked for her name and told her I planned to write about this incident since there was something terribly wrong if Canadian Ice Wine was not allowed through US security into America en route to South America. She went off to see her supervisor.

She returned to advise they had agreed I could take the wine on the flight, provided I agreed to a full body search and a complete search of my carry-on luggage. I agreed. It took 20 minutes.

At that point I was told the wine could only go on the plane in the baggage compartment, but I would not be charged for checking it. I returned outside with my wine and lined up at the AA counter for 15 minutes. When I arrived at the agent, I explained what had happened.

The agent said I could not check the wine on the plane, since there was now only 55 minutes before take-off!

I returned inside and asked for the supervisor with whom I was dealing. She said I could not take the wine with me. I gave it to her.

I thought about asking her to pour it out in front of me, but didn't want to end up in jail. I had to accept defeat. But I did say...."Now I don't want you drinking this!"

I'm sure they all enjoyed how they got the last laugh, and drank the wine later that evening.

Bastards!

With 45 days to go in Vancouver election, anything can happen Vancouver Courier October 1, 2014

Last week, broadcaster Bill Good had the last word. After 50 years in the radio and television business, he decided it was time to retire from his daily CKNW talk show and sleep-in once in a while.

To celebrate the occasion, the Vancouver Board of Trade organized a roast at Hotel Vancouver, co-hosted by Carole Taylor and Ian Black. More than 200 guests joined 17 roasters who had both kind and unkind words for Bill.

To start the evening off, former judge Wally Oppal told the audience Bill’s favourite colour was beige, and although they both grew up in the ‘60s, anyone who regularly listened to Bill knew he had never taken mind-expanding drugs.

Noting he rarely expressed strong public positions on issues, CTV News anchor Mike Killeen presented Bill with a piece of fence so he could continue to sit on it in his retirement. Keith Baldrey told the room the reason Bill never sent emails was because he couldn’t find the send button on his typewriter.

The evening’s final roaster Bruce Allen said Bill had a great face for radio, but questioned why the organizers thought it was necessary to have 17 roasters for someone who just read the news and interview questions prepared by others.

The event ended with a short speech from Bill and a CKNW Reality Check that aired on his last day acknowledging his considerable success in B.C. media over five decades.

I had the pleasure of doing the weekly civic affairs panel with Bill Good for three years. During this time, I developed a great respect for his sense of fairness, both to interviewees and listeners. Unlike some other talk show hosts, he was not dismissive of those who expressed views contrary to his own.

One of our most memorable exchanges was just prior to the last provincial election. Bill was talking on-air about what might happen when the NDP came to power, at which point I interrupted him.

“Just a second” I said. “Don’t you mean to say if the NDP come to power?”

“Surely you don’t think the Liberals have a chance?” he replied.

I responded that since so many pundits were so absolutely certain of an NDP victory, I did have some doubts. We all know what happened.

I feel the same way about Vancouver’s municipal election.

While we are being told the NPA is trailing Vision and voters don’t know Kirk LaPointe, I sense there could also be some surprises on Nov. 15.

One reason is a wild card called Meena Wong. Back in 2008 when I ran for the NPA, I was disappointed COPE did not run a mayoral candidate, although it might not have made a difference after an in camera council report on the Olympic Village was leaked to the Globe and Mail’s Gary Mason.

That year only one COPE councillor was elected, Ellen Woodsworth. I remember it well since she won the 10th place seat I was vying for much of the evening.

This time COPE is running mayoral candidate Meena Wong. Her statements about foreign investors, “renovictions,” and Vision being in the pockets of some big developers seem to be resonating with voters. While it is hard to believe she will end up as mayor, as long as she keeps this up she could affect the outcome of the mayoral race.

At the council level, few voters, me included, know all who are running. However I am aware of some thoughtful Green and NPA candidates, and there are no doubt good COPE candidates as well.

As for park board, I know more about Trish Kelly, one person who is not running, than I do those who are

Over the coming 45 days, we should take advantage of opportunities to get to know the various candidates. This will hopefully allow us to vote for the best individuals, not slates, resulting in a better balance on council, park board and school board.

While I will not be discussing this election on the Bill Good Show, I look forward to discussing it with you in future columns.

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