Kauai miscellaneous

Whenever I travel, I can't help noticing things that interest and amuse me, but rarely others. So here are some of the items I noticed on this trip.

At the Kauai Mini Golf and Botanical Gardens you can play an educational round of golf. At each hole there is information about the history, culture and environment of Hawaii. It was also a lot of fun.

 

It's not often you drive down a narrow, remote road and come across a large cruise ship!

Around the island are these Chicken in a Barrel restaurants where they smoke/barbq chickens and it is very good.

Chicken in the barrel take-out

I was amused to see these chickens hanging out at Chicken in a Barrel since I thought it might be just a matter of time before they were in the barrel.

This is what prompted my purchase of this T-shirt after lunch. My daughter was embarrassed to see me wearing it and was therefore pleased to see me purchase this more environmentally correct T-shirt at the Waipa Kalo festival. (yes, those are taro leaves.)

I always enjoy looking around supermarkets in different cities and countries. At Foodland in Kauai I was surprised to find Canadian beef was often less expensive than US beef. Now why can't we buy rib steaks for $6.95 a pound?

I'd also like to be able to buy poke at Stongs. I tried every one of these. I also enjoyed trying the many different types of fish available on the island, including marlin, different grades of ahi, opah or moonfish, monchong, and the ubiquitous mahi-mahi!

However, I decided to pass on Uncle Bob's Root Beer flavoured whiskey.

Princeville and Hanalei

After 5 days on the south shore, we have come up to Princeville on the north shore. 25 years ago we spent a most memorable Christmas and New Year's Eve here, during which time I played an impressive golf course that had just opened. I wanted to play it again.

The Wyndham Bali Hai resort is one of a number of time-share communities where you can also book condo-style units by the day or week. It is a comfortable place to stay but would be vastly improved if it had a restaurant/bar and drink service at the pools. For a much better poolside experience, go to the St. Regis. (Although I must say, it does feel a bit sterile and the exterior could do with a good washing!)

The Cliffs is another development where we stayed in 1991. Does anyone know what the units on the roof are? Solar collectors?

Princeville, is an expansive master-planned community with a numerous condominium and time share developments and two major resort hotels.
The community began in the 1970s, but slowed in the early 1990s after Japanese beer maker Suntory bought the 9,000-acre property in partnership with Nippon Shinpan Co. and Matsui & Company. In 2005, a Hawaiian developer purchased the assets from Suntory.

Today there are two major hotels: the St Regis, (once the Sheraton), and the Westin Resort. The St. Regis and a number of condominium developments front onto the Makai Golf Club which comprises three 9-hole courses designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. 

Thanks to Dave, the club pro, I was able to enjoy a round at Makai with Sally at less than the standard rate of $279 US. It's a magnificent course that has been renovated at considerable cost, and considered one of the best courses in the world. We played the 9-hole Ocean Course, which runs out along the coastline, and 9-hole Lakes Course. I was told that the 9-hole Woods Course that meanders through native woodlands has not been renovated to the same standard as the other two courses.

While I very much enjoyed the round, I said to Sally that it wasn't as fantastic as I remembered it to be 25 years ago. I subsequently learned this was because the course I remembered so well was not the Makai Course, but rather the Prince Course. Sadly it is currently closed.

When we arrived at the Makai Course it became apparent that once again, there would not be a lot of golfers on the course. In fact, we didn't see anyone else during our 18 holes!

In late 2014, a Hawaii landowner and developer The Resort Group and Reignwood International, owned by billionaire Thai-Chinese businessman Chanchai Ruayrungruang purchased the golf course and adjacent lands for $343 million with the intention of converting it into a private facility. I was told they had difficulty arranging financing and as a result, this magnificent course is closed. There now appears to be some uncertainty as to whether it will re-open as a private course or public resort course.

Yes, it rains a lot on the north shore of Kauai, but it's a warm rain!

Fortunately, the Makai Course is a great experience, (as you can hopefully see from these photos) but it would be nice for Princeville guests to be able to play two different courses without travelling too far.

The 17th hole is the signature hole at Wailua. (Yes, I did buy this golf shirt in Hawaii!)

On Saturday, Sally and I did go down to Kapaa and played the Wailua Municipal Golf Course. Fodor's Travel says it is considered by many to be one of Hawaii's best golf courses. I would disagree, but if you play a weekday afternoon after 2pm for $20, it is certainly one of Hawaii's best values.

I must compliment the management for providing a free, well-designed course handbook. But they really must clean a few things up, and  find another hot dog supplier. The one I ordered was the tiniest and worst hot dog I've ever eaten on a golf course!

Enough about golf.
 
While Princeville is a very well-maintained and attractive community, I must comment on the state of the community's retail area, Princeville Centre. It seems to have been sadly neglected since I was last here, as evidenced by dirty signage and worn out umbrellas and tired looking buildings.

I don't get it. Many people pay a lot of money to stay in the nearby resorts and developments. If the developer isn't prepared to keep the property in good condition, perhaps there is a need for a Business Improvement Area (BIA) organization to demand improvements.

A couple of miles to the north is Hanalei, best described as old-world Hawaii. The  village has a very special charm, and the only problem is trying to avoid singing "Puff, the Magic Dragon" in your mind. Especially since the song has nothing to do with Hanalei. The story of the song takes place "by the sea" in the fictional land of "Honalee".

Spending time in Hanalei is like being in the 70s. You are back to tie-die clothing and hanging out with the Beach Boys. It's a lovely foil for Princeville.

At Bouchons in Hanalei I had to try the saki taster with our sushi.

On Sunday we happened upon the Waipa Kalo annual festival http://waipafoundation.org/events/ which due to heavy rains and thunder forecasts had been postponed from an earlier date. I should note that this is not surprising since Hanalei is one of the rainiest places in the world. You just have to look at the region's lush vegetation to know this is true.

While I passed on the step massage, I did enjoy the music and creative food operations.

While most people I know tend to go to Maui, Oahu, or the big island when visiting Hawaii, since they worry Kauai experiences too much rain, when it's cold and icy in Vancouver, this can be a very beautiful, exotic and tropical place to be. Check it out.

An early morning visitor to our unit in Princeville

This may be the best time of year to travel to Hawaii!

WARNING: Don't read this if you're cold and wishing you were in Hawaii or somewhere hot!

I don't get it. While much of Canada and the US is freezing and blanketed with snow, there are thousands of empty hotel rooms and apartments across Kauai. Every golf course I have played has been relatively empty, so much so that I have struggled to find someone to play with. With a few exceptions, most of the restaurants are quiet.

Sally and I discovered the same thing two years ago when we visited Maui at the end of November before the holiday season began in earnest in Vancouver.

I am told that one reason for the high vacancy rate is the time of year. While everywhere is booked over Christmas and New Years, Americans tend not to travel between US Thanksgiving and Christmas. As a result, you can stay in many resorts and condominium developments for less than half of what you'll pay a week or two later.

I also suspect that another problem is the price of things. While there are no doubt inexpensive places to eat and drink, especially at Happy Hour, other than the cost of accommodation, prices seem high around Kauai, especially for Canadians who must pay a 31% premium given our relatively weak dollar.

So next year, may I suggest that if you want to escape the cold and wet, consider coming to Hawaii in late November or early to mid-December. As you will see from the following photos, it's a very beautiful place, and a lovely respite from the cold.

I must publicly thank an operator at TeeOff.com. As a rule this is a good way to find a discounted tee-time. However, when I called, he told me to book directly since I'd likely get a better rate. I did, since the club was celebrating its 25th anniversary with a further $25 off till Christmas!

The Poipu Bay golf course is a storied place. When I played, most of the tee-times were empty. Fortunately I was able to get paired up with Tim who had got married over the weekend, and thought his new wife would appreciate some time on her own. (This marriage is not likely going to last long!)

When I first went golfing in Hawaii I was warned not to wander onto the lava rocks to find a lost ball. It upset the gods.

Not all the golf courses are expensive. Since Claire had never golfed before in her life, we played her first round at Kukuiolono Park Golf Course where the nine hole fee was $10. Yes, $10. It was another $10 for the cart and a similar amount for club rentals. With the palm trees and ocean views, it was a real treat!

The drive through the Waimea Canyon was quite dramatic. We didn't go all the way to the top; deciding to save that for next time.

Happy Hour MaiTais are usually one hell of a deal. This one cost $5.

However, I was concerned when I read about the two drink minimum accompanying the 25 cent wings and $1 tempura shrimp. I told my server I was driving and had a friend who once got into an awful situation after drinking and driving on Maui. She said not to worry. Our table had already reached its drink minimum.

Even if you don't drink or golf, it's worth coming to Hawaii for the magnificent tropical vegetation.

The shops at Kukui'ula are what you would expect to find at an upscale Poipu Beach resort. The scale is delightful.

While marketing people will tell you it's important to create a story about a product, somehow telling me that Nathan Berg caught my ono didn't really justify the $41 price upstairs at Merimens. We ate at their downstairs restaurant which was also very good.

While I'm not impressed with many of the older condo projects, I do love the plantation cottages found around the island.

 

Who knew they farm shells? Now I know where all the shells found in Vancouver model suites come from.

If it's cold and wet in Vancouver, why not head off to Kauai?

If you are cold and wet in Vancouver and wishing you were in Kauai, don't read this. Unless you are thinking that maybe you should visit here in December 2017, or perhaps before.

I first came to Kauai over Christmas/New Years 1991 when I was working with Westin Hotels on the Bayshore planning and rezoning. We stayed at the Westin Kauai Lagoons, one of a number of super-luxury resorts that no longer exist in Hawaii. http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/hawaii/1123478-super-luxury-resorts-hawaii-aren-t-there-anymore.html

This one was destroyed by the 1992 hurricane Iniki that did more than $1.8 billion damage throughout the island. While it has been rebuilt somewhat, and is now operated by Marriott, it doesn't feel quite the same.

That year we also travelled up to Princeville where we had Christmas dinner at the newly opened Sheraton Princeville. It too has been rebranded and is now the St. Regis. My children always remind me of that meal since I ordered reindeer. It seemed appropriate. However, every subsequent Christmas they ask how I could have ever eaten Rudolph.

Flights and car rental 
This year we came by Westjet since they have a non-stop service to Kauai from Vancouver. The flight leaves at 5:15 and arrives around 9:45. I say around since ours arrived at 10:18 by which time the Advantage Rental Car agency, through which I booked, was closed. Avis had cars, but since it was late, they had a difficult time getting a booking code. At 11:30 we got our car, thanks to very persistent and helpful staff. If you're taking this flight, do not book through Advantage. There's no advantage whatsoever.

Since we are with one daughter, rather than stay at resorts have chosen 2 bedroom condo units. We are spending 6 nights on the south shore near Brennecke Beach and will spend the final 5 nights near Princeville. While it is nice to get away for any period of time, I find 10 to 12 days is so much better than a week, since it takes a couple of days to get over the 2 hour time difference and start to unwind.

A few observations and tips.

Golf at Kauai Lagoons
For old times sake, I played a round of golf at the Kauai Lagoons course which is now rebranded as Ocean Course at Hokuala. The posted rate was $265US until 11 am and then $212 afterwards. However on TeeOff.com I found a 11:06 tee time at $130. I booked it, and was surprised to discover there was just one other player joining me. I recommend this website.

However, although the course is considered one of the best in Hawaii, I would definitely not recommend paying much more than $130. Once 27 holes, there are now 18. While the staff were very helpful, and I was impressed to find my name on the golf cart GPS, the operation is undergoing a redevelopment. When I ordered a hotdog after 9 holes I was told there were no hotdogs for 3 weeks. The kitchen is under construction.  At one point you are required to drive your golf cart through a construction site. I shouldn't complain, I know, but be forewarned!

Dinner at Brennecke Beach Broiler
Since it was within walking distance, we had dinner here our first night. The place is casual and lively, but expensive for what it is. And for some reason our server wasn't in a particularly good mood and the service seemed rushed. Even though we had starters and entrees, the bill arrived less than 40 minutes after we arrived.

While waiting for our reservation, the lovely guy in the shop downstairs told us to go down to the beach where we found giant sea turtles. That was a highlight!

Historic towns on Kauai
While I am not an expert on the Hawaiian Islands, and have spent most of my time on Maui, I like Kauai since it is very beautiful and a much less developed than some of the other islands. I particularly enjoy driving around the island and exploring the small, historic towns such as Hanapepe, once nearly a ghost town, but now experiencing a resurgence with new art galleries and other small businesses opening up. 

Along the south coast is Poipu beach with numerous resorts and a couple of golf courses. More about that in a future post.

Why did the chicken cross the road?
One of the intriguing things about this island is wild chickens everywhere. Apparently they escaped during the hurricane and the population has been expanding ever since. At least no one has to go hungry on this island.

Solar panels
While Hawaii gets lots of sunshine, although there was a flood warning on Maui the day after we arrived, I have not noticed a lot of solar panels, except on this Poipu Beach property. It would be interesting to learn why more properties don't make better use of the sun for energy.

That's it for now. I'm off to enjoy the sun.