A view down a major street in a new part of Marrakech |
Sally and I came here with Carol and Richard Henriquez. Since we generally travel on our own, this was a new, but very good experience that we will most definitely repeat.
My only real problem during the trip was
that my new Microsoft Surface PC crashed on the third day and so I was not able to
blog and post photos as we went along. So this post and the following stories
are being written on my phone, to be transcribed later.
In total we spent 11 nights in Morocco-5 in
Marrakech, 2 in Essaouira, 2 in Fes and
2 in Tangiers. I counted the nights rather than days since time was spent
driving from Marrakech to Essaouira
(about 2 1/2 hours); Essaouira to
Fes (about 8 hours); a train from Fes to Tangier (about 5 1/2 hours since we hit a cow and
seemed to stop for far too long at every station); and 4 hours flying from
Tangier back to Marrakech.
The train stations, like this one in Marrakech, were attractive modern facilities |
The first time I have stayed in a hotel sprinkled with rose petals. Reminded me of a movie! |
What most impressed me with the riads,
(A riad (Arabic: رياض) is a traditional Moroccan house or palace with an interior garden or courtyard. The word riad comes from the Arabian term for garden), was their juxtaposition with their surroundings. It
was often hard to accept that such elegant accommodation could be located in such run down locations. It was like walking through a
doorway in the 100 block East Hastings into the Four Seasons Hotel .
Richard observed it will
be interesting to see if these beautiful riads will one day gentrify their surroundings. Somehow I doubt it but who knows what might happen over time.
It is trite to say but it is hard to come
to Morocco and not be overwhelmed by the contrasts. While we came here
thinking desert we're leaving thinking agriculture and farmers. Carol could not get over
how lush and green so much of the countryside appeared.
Some other highlights were the beautiful
restaurants we experienced although we will be happy to avoid Moroccan food for
a while; the expansive Jewish cemeteries which reminded us of the significant
Jewish communities that once lived here. I say 'once' since most Jews have left .
While our guides often talked about the harmony that exists between the various religions here, in fact the Jews often lived and worked in the Mellah or ghetto outside the main community. Many worked in the jewelry business and today many of the small jewelry shops remain in what were the Mellahs.
While our guides often talked about the harmony that exists between the various religions here, in fact the Jews often lived and worked in the Mellah or ghetto outside the main community. Many worked in the jewelry business and today many of the small jewelry shops remain in what were the Mellahs.
Other highlights included the kind and exceptional
service we generally experienced. When we went out for dinner the last night at a restaurant
recommended by the hotel, staff walked us to the taxi who drove us
to the restaurant and then picked up afterwards.We paid when he brought us back. With only one or two exceptions, we generally felt very safe.
As I wandered around the streets on my own, it was obvious I was a tourist, but people were kind with directions |
You also have to be aware that the kids in the market area who offer to help you with directions,
will expect payment. Moreover, whatever you give them, they will usually respond
"That's nothing!"
You also have to be prepared for those who offer to take you
to the tanneries or some other part of the markets. They can be very persistent and
invariably when you arrive you're shown pictures on the wall of their supposed
family who run the business. Maybe it is their family, but having had
too many similar experiences in Thailand, Indonesia and elsewhere, I became very suspicious.
But if you are in the market for Moroccan
style goods, there are a surprising number of talented artisans making
beautiful things by hand in tiny storefronts. Sadly, Sally and I are now in a disposition
mode-not an acquisition mode-so did not buy the things we would have loaded up on 30 years ago!
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