Wednesday, July 4, 2007

Montenegro: The World's Newest Country

Our Canada Day was spent trying to get from Albania to Montenegro. It turned out to be easier than expected, thanks to some good luck along the way. When we arrived in Tirana, we were surprised to discover that there was no bus station; we just stopped at the side of a dusty gravel road near the centre of town. After calling out Montenegro a few times, someone said I should go to Shkodra a northern Albanian town, and pointed out two elderly people dressed in black. “Follow them” he said. “They go to Shkodra”.

So we did as we were told. A couple of blocks away we saw a very fancy Mercedes bus. “Get on” the driver said. “It leaves for Shkodra in two minutes”. But I had to pee, and there was no WC in sight. So I did what the Albanians did.

There are no bus tickets on Albanian buses. You just give some money to a driver’s helper who collects the fares and removes the luggage. He’s the fellow with just a couple of teeth. You know when he’s approaching because he usually hasn't had a bath or shower for at least a week.

Two hours later, the bus stopped at the side of the road and we realized we must be in Shkodra. Sally heard another passenger say thank you when he got his knapsack from the luggage compartment. “Do you speak English?” she asked. And he mumbled something to the affirmative. When he got out his copy of Lonely Planet, we knew we were in luck. He was Dave, and he too was trying to get to Montenegro. More importantly, his guide book was more up to date than ours. I asked if he knew if the coastal border crossing was open, and he said he believed it was. We agreed to set off together.

The choice was a minibus to Montenegro, or a taxi to the border from where we would get another taxi. I didn’t like the idea of walking across the Albanian/Montenegrin border and looking for another cab, so we decided to find the minibus stop. We found it, only to be told the bus wouldn’t arrive for another hour and a half. However, we were offered a taxi to a Montenegrin town. I was not sure what to do when an Australian voice piped up. “It’s ok. Go with him. I just came across for the day with my cousin who’s Montenegrin. The price for the three of you will be the same as the bus.” So I looked at Dave, and he sort of nodded (up and down, since he was British), and we got into a taxi, and set off. I’m still not sure exactly what happened at the border. Our driver took some cash from his wallet and our passports. Heseemed to know everyone in authority, shaking their hands and patting uniformed officers on the back. It was like watching Jim Moodie maneuvering through City Hall. About 10 minutes later, he returned to the car, gave us back our passports, and we drove through. We were very relieved.

The taxi took us to Ulcinj a border seaside town. We wandered into a bus station and learned there would be a bus to Budva, our desired destination, in less than an hour. We were delighted. We bought some tickets with our remaining euros, and at 4 pm we were on our way.

We had no idea that Montenegro, which only recently gained its independence from Serbia, would be so beautiful and majestic. Ironically, if it hadn't been so hot when we arrived in Skopje almost a week earlier, we would have missed it, since our initial plan had been to take an overnight bus from Skopje to Dubrovnik. Instead we got to experience two days in Albania and two fascinating old towns on Montenegro’s Adriatic coast: Budva and Kotor. Before this trip, I had not even heard of either of them. But each is of international caliber, with marvelous old walled cities attracting tourists and very impressive yachts from around the world.

Budva is part of Montenegro’s holiday coast. It offers beautiful beaches, a charming walled town, elegant restaurants, a big harbour: an amusement park area, and a lively bar and night life scene with gorgeous servers in skimpy black and gold bikinis and shimmering oiled skin. (At least we think it was oiled. We were too timid to find out.

The Stari Grad, or old town, is very picturesque, and in extremely good condition. That's because most of it was completely rebuilt following two 1979 earthquakes. (It’s amazing how much of the world has been damaged by earthquakes, and yet most of us don’t know or remember much about them.) We had a seafood dinner in a restaurant on the harbour that was very good. The prices were about three times what the two year old guidebook said they would be, but it was well worth it. I was interested to know where the other diners came from. I was told they were from Russia, Serbia, Macedonia, Scandinavia and Albania. Surprisingly, there were no Brits, even though I thought this was a popular destination for the English. Similarly, there were no Americans or Canadians, presumably since the latter were celebrating Canada Day!

After an early morning walk about town, we set of at noon for Kotor, about an hour's bus ride north. This is another UNESCO designated old walled town built over the past 6 centuries, which fortunately was not damaged by an earthquake. It sits at the end of a fjord, where large yachts from around the world are moored.

There was not much accommodation available within the old town. But fortunately, a local travel agency found us an apartment, with lots of space and a nice terrace. After cleaning up, we set off into the maze of narrow streets of the impressive old town. Although parts were full of tourists, others felt very authentic, and looked as they might have hundreds of years ago. Outside the walls were some nice beaches and restaurants. We thought that it would be a good place to stay for a few days, but we can’t.

We have now a revised itinerary that will hopefully see us in Dubrovnik for a few days, followed by a boat trip up the coast. We will then get a train to Lubliana, and then another train to Budapest. We hope to take a hydrofoil to Bratislava, and then a train to Brne Czechoslovakia. Then a train to Prague. From Prague our plans are uncertain. One option is to fly to Moscow. Another is to take a train to Krakow and then fly from Warsaw to Moscow. All being well, we'll get on a river cruise to St. Petersburg, and then fly to Amsterdam in time for dinner with Chuck Brook and Margot Paris, before setting off for South America.

At least, that's today's planned itinerary. And if the next 9 to 10 weeks are as good as the past week, we’ll be delighted.


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Shiva Excursion said...

Trekking in Nepal is one in all the favored commercial enterprise activities in Nepal trekking is one in all the simplest means of experiencing the natural beauty and wealthy cultural
heritage of Nepal. Nepal treks offers snow capped views of Nepal Himalaya, stunning landscape, totally different ethnic teams & their traditions, welcome, lush valleys through forests of bush, bamboo, oak, and hemlock, visiting one or 2 villages to next trekking destination. Nepal isn't merely walking hiking sooner or later when another, it's rather a gradual means of experiencing of Nepal's diversity in terms of earth science, people, faith and a large vary of culture. Shiva Excursion is Local Trekking Agency in Nepal may be each day hike to nduce to the highest on a mountain or a ridge for the spectacular views of mountain chain peaks or it may be a hiking for a month passing through villages within the shadow of lofty snow peaks, valleys, notch experiencing wealthy culture, custom and also the impressive views of the Himalaya in Asian nation. the target of Trekking in Nepal isn't simply the actual destination, however the journey itself. You travel at a modest pace, observant nature, rural communities, and spectacular mountain panoramas whereas you're trekking in Himalaya . Shiva Excursion old trekking guide can lead for path finding an introduction to the native individuals, culture, faith and mode. Under Nepal Government License holder Trekking Company in Nepal which is lead by Over 20 Years Trekking and Tour Operation Highly Recommend Everest Base Camp Trek and Annapurna Base Camp Trek. Because these Trip are most Popular and Challenging and top Destination in Nepal. Most of the Adventure, Moderate, and Easy hiking and Hard Passes Organized in Nepal. not that much enough some of Top Peak Climbing as Island Peak Climbing, Mera Peak Climbing, Lobuche Peak and Many others real adventure path of Nepal. In Nepal More then 3000 threkking Agencies and all are competion for the business sector. Some one selling cheapest and some one selling top and quality service. those Agencies as over 30% are fake travel dealing.

Buna Treks & Expedition Pvt. Ltd. said...

Why Trekking in Nepal Nepal?, a land of high hills, mountains, raging rivers and verdant deep jungles of Terai & its rich lifestyle makes one of the most sought locations inside the map of the world. a destination for all season as it's miles one of the most numerous and varied international locations on this planet a unique us of a nestled inside the excellent snow capped variety is some other advent of the mom earth and it embraces worlds' 8 highest peaks from mt.everest, mt.kanchenjonga, mt.lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu to Annapurna massive. nepal is likewise the beginning location of Buddha (light of Asia). The Buna Treks is Local Base Under Nepal Government Trekking Agency in Nepal. blessed with wealthy nature, the brilliant Himalayan in Nepal range stretches from the far north-west to the way east where the worlds highest 8th eight-thousanders are in Nepal. nepal gives a enthralling adventure with enough time to wonder the encompassing beautiful landscapes and immerse with its warm human beings, imparting you full of range and enchantment from the low lands of Gangetic plains and its verdant dense jungle where the endangered species of Royal Bengal tigers and the one-horned rhinoceros roam, to the mythical yak and yeti trail to the adventure and leisure tourism was hooked up in view that late 1960 and 70’s quality travel & trekking enterprise have mushroomed by using a tourism professionals Nepalese, and were leading countless of adventure trips in the course of Himalaya consisting of rafting, mountain climbing also organize adventure trekking, and entertainment trips which includes tailor-made itineraries for own family, college companies and company executives. Many of Trekking Company in Nepal are not perfect trip dealing, they have not enough Experienced. Trekking in Nepal, Nepal is domestic to community of trails also known as the amazing Himalaya trails, an extensive trail gadget that covers Nepal from humble and Darchula within the west to Kanchenjunga in the east. the range of Trekking in Nepal cannot be located in any other location of the world. in fact, the lowest factor in Nepal is fifty-nine m above sea-level inside the terai location even as the very best point is Everest, eight,848 m above sea-level, the two factors are, in a direct line, most effective two hundred kilometers aside. the majority of visitors to Nepal are available through the Tribhuvan international airport in Kathmandu. it's far in Kathmandu that trekkers want to accumulate their permits and other documentation, both from a trekking agent or from the best places of work. those files will be checked along the hiking route. for people with little time to spend in Nepal, there are half of-day hikes from Kathmandu to witness breathtaking Himalayan Trekking in Nepal perspectives in any other case trek for weeks over stunning tough mountain passes. as much as the mid-1960s just a few trekkers had generally visited Nepal and lower back then as part of corporations of excursion fans. the various huge expeditions of the day recommended trekkers to join up in an try to help balance the investment.