Tuesday, July 3, 2007

Colourful Albania

As soon as we crossed the border from Macedonia to Albania we made a number of startling discoveries.

The Alphabet. I could read Albanian! Unlike Macedonia, which uses the Cyrillic alphabet, Albania uses the Roman alphabet. “Oh look”, I said to Sally. “There’s a farmacia”. It was quite comforting since in Macedonia I couldn’t read a thing, and initially had trouble distinguishing the men’s WC from the women’s without going inside.

The bunkers They were everywhere. They were not a complete surprise since the guide book wrote about them. It seems that Enver Hoxha, the first secretary of Albania’s Communist Party decided Albania didn’t need allies as long as the people could be protected from attack. So over a 35 year period, from 1950 to 1985, he constructed over 700,000 ‘air raid shelters’ throughout the country. They were designed as indestructible concrete domes, and they are. Today, no one knows what to do with them, other than try to camouflage them with paint or planting. You find them in the countryside, in the middle of residential areas, even along a main street! (Sally’s was intrigued that the secretary insisted that the engineer prove their indestructibility by sitting inside a bunker while it was attacked by tank. He survived!) The Cars Almost every other car is a Mercedes. Not just the taxis that are often Mercedes throughout the world. The passenger cars are too. In the poorest country in Europe! When asked why they have so many Mercedes, Albanians will tell you they are good, strong, long lasting cars. They will then mutter something about getting them for a good price from other parts of Western Europe or America. I kept looking to see if any bore the names of Vancouver car dealers, but it seems that all vehicle identification is removed from the vehicles by the time they arrive in the country. Colourful Buildings No doubt in response to the era of communist rule, the Albanians paint their buildings with some of the most incredible colour combinations. High rise buildings are chartreuse, with burgundy trim. Or bright yellow. It’s fantastic. I couldn’t stop taking photos.

Durres We came to Durres, a coastal town, rather than Tirana, the capital, since the guide book and other travelers described the latter as very beaten up and dusty, with large potholes that could be tricky to navigate. Sally didn’t want a repeat of Skopje. Rather than exp
erience another dreary bus station, we decided to get off the bus along a strip of beachfront hotels. After walking past a number of colourful, but mundane buildings with our luggage on our backs, we came upon an attractive 5 storey hotel. At 40 euros a night, it came with breakfast, beach chairs and an umbrella. We took it, but were subsequently surprised to discover that it had no elevator. The room was very large, air-conditioned, and there was a bidet in the well appointed bathroom. The view of the beachfront was colourful, to say the least. Changing money Once again, we had no local currency. So we set off on foot, assuming we couldn’t be that far from the centre of the small town and cash machines. We were wrong. After 30 minutes, we still had a long way to go. But amongst the squalor, we came upon a modern shopping mall. There had to be a bank machine inside. After all, there are lots at Oakridge. No such luck. But there was a very nice supermarket and we pick up hors d’oevres. We were surprised to discover this very fancy store would not accept credit cards. But they did agree to change Euros that I didn’t need to bribe the border guards and we had enough lekes to buy champagne, beer, and antipasto. I was surprised at the number of Italian items in the store. But I shouldn’t have been since Italy is just a short boat ride away. We didn’t have enough money left over for a taxi, so we took a bus back to the hotel. We had just enough left over for another bus into town in the morning, where we could get local funds.

Dinner That evening, we checked out the restaurant scene along the beach. We discovered that our hotel was by far the best place along this immediate stretch of beachfront properties. And since
none of the hotels would accept a credit card, we returned to our hotel for dinner. The food wasn’t great.

The thief The next morning, we set off for the centre of town by bus. Within seconds, Sally noticed a man trying to steal things out of my bag. She managed to push me away, but there was little else we could do, other than stare him down until he got off the bus. Afterwards, Sally regretted not giving him some money, as a way of letting him know he shouldn’t be trying to steal. I didn’t have the same thoughts.

Downtown Like so much of the world, the centre of Durres was a study in contrasts. Many of the older apartment buildings were amongst the most decrepit I have ever seen. But nearby, colourful new apartment blocks were going up. While most roads were in incredible disrepair, the main street and sidewalks had been refinished with attractive granite pavers. We got some money, and checked out a seafood restaurant recommended in our guidebook. We spent the afternoon on the beach, where I discovered the fellow next to me was a Macedonian now living in Chicago. He said most of the friends he left behind look so much older than him.

Another dinner We had a very nice evening at the restaurant. Although the menu was very good, the food was a bit disappointing,. Our assortment of seafood hors d’oevres included smoked salmon, pickled anchovies and red mullets, a variety of squid and octopus dishes, seafood croquettes and fresh oysters on the shell. (I couldn’t believe I was eating oysters in Albania!) The main course was assorted Albanian fish on coals. Next time, I’ll have something else. We were entertained by a singer who sang only American songs. We initially thought she might be English speaking, but as the evening progressed and she got tired, she started to mispronounce words. It reminded me of the movie ‘Westworld’ in which the robots start off just like human beings until something goes wrong with their wiring, and they start to act up. We subsequently learned our singer was an Albanian from Tirana.

Leaving Durres The next morning, we set off for Montenegro. I wanted to take the train to Tirana and look for more colourful buildings. But a travel agent cautioned us. “Albanian trains are not for people like you” he said. We knew what he meant. (We have subsequently learned that someone managed to steal George Bush’s watch off his arm while he was visiting the country!) From Tirana, it wasn’t quite clear which way we would go. Our guide book was vague on whether a new border crossing would be open, and the internet was full of stories about people being literally taken for a ride by some taxi drivers. My hope was that we would find a direct bus from Tirana to Budva, an acclaimed resort community on the Adriatic coast.

Some final thoughts. Albanian buildings illustrate why we need condominium associations to manage the exterior and ongoing maintenance. In many, many cases, residents paint their portion of the exterior whatever colours they want. The results can be quite interesting. Albanian people are very kind and generous. Other than on the bus, we always had great experiences with everyone we met. People went out of their way to be helpful. And oh yes, if you ever come here, nodding your head up and down means no; shaking your head sideways means yes. Just when we got used to this, we had to leave.

204 comments:

1 – 200 of 204   Newer›   Newest»
Alvidri said...

if you ever decide to go back, i recommend you visit the restaurant "Sofra e Ariut" in Tirana

Ilir Hoti said...

Next time don't forget to visit Vlora further south and Saranda, make planty of stops on the way to Saranda and when there, finally, visit the Ancient City of Butrint. You'll not be disapointed.

Regards
Ilir

Dorina said...

except the fact that ur experience was not really a good one(i mean the restaurants, the bus incident...) i realised maybe ur guide was not a good one, but i really love the title "Colourful Albania", sounds good! :)

Walnut Creek Remodeling said...

I like how you tell this story of your trip...it is simple and direct. Also, you were lucky, since you had no actual Albanians showing you around and telling you what to stay away from...besides your guide,of course

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Email: mountainmarttreksnepal@gmail.com

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Adventure Himalaya Treks is a Nepal Government registered dependable trekking in Nepal, Everest Base Camp Treks, Manaslu Trekking, Langtang Trekking, Annapurna Base Camp Treks, Annapurna Circuit Treks and more tourism related activities Company established by diplomatic knowledgeable tourism competent with over 11 years of perfect experience in the tourism sector. It has been well established as the prime service provider for excursion holidays in Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan. All of our team members are familiar with nature, mountain and the culture of Nepal with most having grown up in the Himalaya. We are committed on environmental friendly tourism activities and we take satisfaction in doing our part to preserve the natural beauty, respect the way of life of compare community, and their local culture and heritage.
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G.P.O.Box:5981,
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Family Adventure Treks and Expedition Pvt. Ltd. is Professional Trekking Company in Nepal. It has been leading since 2000 to till regularly and Repudiate Trekking agency, The Family Adventure is Government Authorized known as Tourism board Certificate and fully trusted thousand of client has been high recommend.
We are Associate of Trekking Agency Association (TAAN), Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and Tourism board (NTB) we operate as your desire all the requirement for filling the classic and various Trekking region as some touristic and none touristic are in Nepal as. Annapurna Ghorepani Poonhill Trekking, Annapurna Base Camp trekking, Annapurna Circuit Trekking, Muktinath Jomsom Trekking, Pokhara royel Trekking and Dhampus Sarankot Trekking of Annapurna Region. The Second Part of Popularity Langtang Region is Langtange Valley Trekking, Langtang Goshainkunda Pass Trekking, Langtang Ganjala Pass Trekking, Helambu Cricuit Trekking and Shivapuri Nagarkot Trekking .
The Third Part of highly popularity in the world Everest Region Trekking is Everest Base Camp Trekking, Everest Gokyo Lake Trekking, Jiri to Everest Base Camp trekking, Everest three Pass trekking is adventure type of moderate Trekking in Nepal.

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GPO 14445 Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal
Phone: +977-1-4700663, 4700434
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Nepal Base Camp Treks offers you very popular non tourist destinations as remote regions of manaslu Tsum Valley Trek, Nar-Phu Valley Trek, Tamang Heritage Trail, Ghale Gaun Trek, Kanchanjanga Base Camp Trek, Rolwaling Camping Trek, Upper Mustang Cultural Trek, Lower Dolpo and Upper Dolpo Trek on very reasonable social trek in non touristic destination to better understand your holidays with our professional team
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We guaranteed you best services and trouble less during your lifetime holidays journey with our professional mountain local team and wish you have a nice journey and see you soon in Nepal here to dream your adventure awaits you, as I remain
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Sappa Lama Gomso said...

Welcome to Base Camp Trekking Tour! Hundred percent pure lands of highest Himalaya's adventures
Base Camp Trekking Tour is one of the best adventure government registered company operating all adventure holidays trip to world most popular mountains Everest Base Camp Treks, Annapurna Base Camp Treks, Langtang Treks, Manaslu Treks, as well Upper mustang trek, Ganesh Himal Treks, Langtang Ganja La Pass Treks and all popular sightseeing tour of Ancients Kathmandu Valley and relaxing Chitwan Lumbini Tour on your desirable local budget for national and international travelers to Nepal.
Nepal Base Camp Treks (P) Ltd.(www.basecamptrekkingtour.com) may be your next Trekking and Travel Agency in Nepal for any Base Camp Trekking Tour to highlander Himalayas Everest base camp, best mountain sceneries Annapurna Base Camp, recently promoting Manaslu Circuit Trek, several High passes Thorong La Annapurna Circuit,Gokyo Lake Chola Pass,Gokyo Lake Renjo La Pass, Chhukung Kongma La Pass, Rolwaling Tashilapchha Pass, Gosaikund Lake Pass, Kathmandu Valley Cultural trek and tour,Dhulekhel Namoduddha, Nagarkot trek, Bungmati Tour, Chiwan Chepang Hill Trek, Bandipur Tour,Pokhara Valley trekking tour,Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek, Annpurna Ghandruk Trek, Kanchanjanga north to south Pass,Langtang Ganja La Pass, depending small group travelers to joining group travelers on your desired budget to standard budget.
Nepal Base Camp Treks offers you very popular non tourist destinations as remote regions of manaslu Tsum Valley Trek, Nar-Phu Valley Trek, Tamang Heritage Trail, Ghale Gaun Trek, Kanchanjanga Base Camp Trek, Rolwaling Camping Trek, Upper Mustang Cultural Trek, Lower Dolpo and Upper Dolpo Trek on very reasonable social trek in non touristic destination to better understand your holidays with our professional team
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We guaranteed you best services and trouble less during your lifetime holidays journey with our professional mountain local team and wish you have a nice journey and see you soon in Nepal here to dream your adventure awaits you, as I remain
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The towering Himalayas are, to many travellers’ minds, the chief reason for visiting Nepal. The country tumbles steeply down from the 800km stretch of the Himalayan battlements that forms its northern border, and can claim no fewer than eight of the world’s ten highest peaks – including, of course, Everest, the highest of them all. The mountains are more than just physically astonishing, however. The cultures of highland-dwelling Nepalese peoples are rich and fascinating, and the relaxed, companionable spirit of trekking life is an attraction in itself. The Himalayas have long exerted a powerful spiritual pull, too. In Hindu mythology, the mountains are where gods go to contemplate, while the Sherpas and other mountain peoples hold certain peaks to be the very embodiment of deities.
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The Helambu and Langtang regions are less striking but conveniently close to Kathmandu, attracting a little fewer than ten percent of trekkers. The Langtang valley trek & the Ganja-La pass are known trails in this area. This leaves vast areas of eastern and far western Nepal relatively untrodden by visitors. To hike in these areas you’ll need either to get set for camping and carry your own supplies, and live like a local, or pay to join an organized trek with tents and accept the compromises that go along with that.
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The ranges of Annapurna base camp trek is one of the most popular walking tour in the Himalayan world. Trail literally brings you face to face with an eight thousand highest Peak– for a moderate-difficult trek; this is one of best incredible! The fascinating Annapurna ranges massif includes the world’s tenth highest peak in Himalaya. Annapurna (8,091 m) I hold a fatal attraction for mountaineers of world. This mountain has the highest fatality ratio among the eight thou sanders peak. This formidable mountain aura apart, its base camp (ABC) trek holds several treasures for the mountain lover world.
Annapurna Mountain views that leave you spellbound
The Annapurna mountain range whets your appetite for mountain views front-right from Pokhara City. This is first even before you start the trek. At Ghandruk village, you see distinct views of Machapuchare(6993m) Annapurna South (7219m) and Hiunchuli (6441m). Views of different peaks of the world Annapurna massif and Machapuchare stay with you all the way till Sinuwa Hill. The tip of Holy Machapuchare teases you at Dovan (2600m). As you burst out of the bamboo forest past Himalaya and Deurali pass, Machapuchare appears again in its full glory. Machapuchare, the ‘fish tailed mountain’, in Nepalese is revered by the Nepalese people for its exquisite beauty. Legendry believed to be one of the homes of Hindi Lord (Shiva). This holy mountian has never been officially summitted! As you touch down the Machapuchare base camp, in addition to Machapuchare, you can see massif Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Gangapurna and Hiunchuli Peak up close. The Annapurna Base Camp is a small cluster of six-seven lodges opposite the ridge of Annapurna glacier. As you look around up from the edge of the glacier, you come face to face with the Annapurna massif ranges. Annapurna South, I, III and Gangapurna, with Gandharvachuli and Machapuchare are all there to meet your unleash gaze when your eyes rest upon them. Trekking into the forests of the Annapurna Conservation Area The trail takes you through a variety of vegetation while trekking from Ghandruk village to Chhomrong you are surrounded by Nepal's national flower (rhododendron), fern and wild bamboo. Once you cross Sinuwa Hill to enter the narrow valley of Annapurna sanctuary, the forest becomes densely. Tallest oak trees become prominent here. As you move further up towards Deurali pass, the thick forests give way to tall grasses. Around this area, you will find trees of thick bark called Daphne. This is used by local people to make paper. These trees are commonly found around estern part of nepal and india border as well. Closer to Machapuchare base camp (3700m), the terrain turns into Alpine. You see the patches of grass amidst boulders. There are also flowering plants lining the trail at this section too.
The Annapurna base camp trail has 3 sections through forest that is so dense that sometime sunlight barely seeps through. The first one starts right after the villages around Chomrung and extends till New Bridge. On the trail from Sinuwa, you will hear the Modi River roaring past right next to you. But the trees around are so densely that you can’t really see the river flow. The third stretch is after Sinuwa and goes all the way to Dovan via Bamboo. The beauty of this trek is that you walk through these forests twice.
The Annapurna Base Camp Trek and region is nestled in the 7,629 sq km Annapurna Conservation Area and home to 1,228 species of flowering plants, more than 100 mammals, 474 birds, 33 reptiles with 22 amphibians. If you’re lucky you might spot an exotic bird or even called marmot.

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