Wednesday, October 12, 2022

Brussels-an under-rated city in an under-rated country

I first visited Belgium in 1969 when my Manchester flatmate Eli Harari and I set off on our European travels. We took the ferry from Dover to Ostend, and I'll never forget our arrival since as we got off the ship the brakes on our NSU Prinz 30 failed. Fortunately, we found a pamphlet in the glove box with the addresses of NSU dealerships and repair shops throughout Europe. The next morning, we drove to the Ostend location, only to discover the site had been redeveloped many years earlier with an office building. It was a very old car, and pamphlet! 

The Grand Place, one of the most impressive public spaces in the world.

While I don't remember anything else about Ostend, I vividly remember our arrival in Brussels, especially the Grand Place https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Place. It was the most magnificent public space I had ever seen. I also enjoyed discovering other parts of the city and museums built by King Leopold, financed by Belgium's colonial activities in Africa.  

 and driving along a small residential street and finding these giant steel balls in the air at the end.

I returned to Belgium in 2009 with Sally when we participated in a house exchange in a small town called Zomergem. https://gellersworldtravel.blogspot.com/2009/09/goodbye-zomergem-goodbye-belgium.html I wrote about our trip to Brussels here   https://gellersworldtravel.blogspot.com/2009/09/brussels-capital-of-europe.html

French and Dutch are Belgium's official languages although it is home to only a minority of Flemish people. However, during my recent 5-day stay, I didn't meet anyone who didn't speak English.

The congress was held at a facility with the unusual name of Tour and Taxi, a renovated complex

The purpose of this trip was to attend ISOCARP's (International Society of City and Regional Planners) annual congress. https://isocarp.org/58th-wpc-brussels-2022/  I first learned about ISOCARP when invited to serve on a competition jury for a new town in Sakhalin Russia  https://competitions.org/2021/06/sakhalin-region-development-competition/ The Russian organizers thought membership in ISOCARP would enhance my credibility as a juror. In fact, although it is not well known in Canada, it is an organization that is highly regarded around the world. I was impressed to learn this year's congress was attended by planners from 78 different countries. More about the congress later.

The artworks on the elevator doors were continued into the inside of the elevators

Whenever I travel to a new city, a key consideration is where to stay. This time, I booked the first hotel recommended by the congress organizers - NHOW. It turned out to be an excellent choice, by virtue of its location within walking distance of the city centre and Grand Place, and adjacent to the Botanique Metro station. As should be evident from these photos, it also had a most creative atmosphere.

The timing of this conference coincided with Yom Kippur. I briefly considered going to Antwerp for the Jewish Day of Atonement since that city is famous for its large Jewish population and is sometimes referred to as Jerusalem of the North.  https://jguideeurope.org/en/region/belgium/antwerp/  However, after a brief online search I discovered there was an English language progressive synagogue in Brussels.  https://www.ijc.be/  

Avenue Louise, a beautiful grand street lined with trams, parking, and beautiful buildings and expensive shops 

While I worried it might be difficult to get to, as it turned out it was a direct 25-minute tram ride from my hotel, along Avenue Louise, one of the most prestigious streets in Brussels. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avenue_Louise. When I arrived at the service held in an office building, I was surprised to see a heavy police presence. I subsequently learned this was quite common at High Holiday services in Europe, but there was extra security because both the US Ambassador to Belgium and US Ambassador to the European Union were in attendance.

Below are a few more photos taken around the city.

Scooters are a popular form of transportation around the city

Unlike Vancouver, there are many pedestrian streets

Brussels is famous for its gastronomic delights. Dinner at Chez Leon, one of the city's oldest              and popular restaurants, famous for its moules
Belgium- a country known for its chocolate
I was surprised to find this bicycle repair shop in one of the Metro (subway) stations
i
The city offers a mix of heritage and contemporary architecture

While I often associate Holland with the sale of soft drugs, the aroma of weed permeated the city.

I went here for a beer!

When I arrived at the Grand Place, it was full of cheering people and music

I subsequently learned the celebration was in honour of a cyclist who had just won a major           bicycle race in Australia.

Like Paris and other European cities, a comfortable scale of buildings can be found                  throughout much of the city 

However, some areas are now being developed with the sort of buildings we are accustomed                to in Vancouver

One of the grand shopping arcades

I was saddened to find many people sleeping in the subway stations, with an attendant                     odour of urine. Each morning, there are asked to leave by security.

I was saddened by the extensive graffiti found throughout the city. 
A thoughtful message at the hotel's buffet breakfast.

No comments: