Monday, May 30, 2016

Hamburg and HafenCity

While I often dislike hotel carpets, I liked this one outside our room
In 2013 Hamburg was home to an international building exposition and Sally and I decided to do a house exchange there for 3 weeks. http://gellersworldtravel.blogspot.dk/2013/06/touring-hamburg.html We enjoyed the city very much and so when Richard Henriquez said he wanted to see it since some of his relatives were buried there in the Jewish cemetery, we readily agreed to return. This time we stayed in a hotel, one I can recommend. The Kempinski Atlantic is a very beautifully appointed hotel overlooking one of the inner city lakes. While it is not cheap (are any of the Kempinski hotels cheap?) it is a good location, especially if you are arriving by train, like we did.
The philharmonic hall in 2013.
The roof of the philharmonic hall is now finished, but the building isn't
Once again we took a hop-on-hop-off tour to get an overview of the city, and then explored HafenCity on foot. It is most impressive. I wanted to see how the Herzog and de Meuron Philharmonic Hall had turned out, (I hated it last time) but discovered that 3 years later it still isn't finished. In fact, it didn't seem much different than when last viewed!
HafenCity has to be one of the largest waterfront redevelopment projects in Europe. I would say 'the world' but then again one just has to look at what is happening in China!
We ate both nights on a nearby street. On the hotel's recommendation we ate at an Italian restaurant Cafe di Roma the first night, but decided to try some German food the next night at Das Dorf, an intimate lower level restaurant.

We also took a boat cruise...one of a number you can take, and I was surprised to see a small number of people camping on the side of the lake. Perhaps they have the same judge who allowed people to camp in public spaces in Victoria.

We left by train for Denmark and I was surprised to find that some people, despite having purchased a ticket, had nowhere to sit. If you book a train in Europe, it is increasingly a good idea and spend another 4 euros and book a seat!

Rotterdam: love it or hate it

Two photos I found on-line illustrating some of the city's newer buildings.
I first visited Rotterdam during my 2012 tour and was very impressed with the edgy, creative quality of the people I met and the huge container port. I was also impressed with a particular display at the architecture biennale. http://gellersworldtravel.blogspot.dk/2012/04/rotterdam-biennale-follow-yellow-brick.html  There is no doubt that this city, largely rebuilt after World War II has some very questionable urban design and look-at-me architecture. That being said, I like the place, and recommend it as a tourist destination, especially for architects. Not all my colleagues would agree.We had limited time, so purchased a same-day-return ticket for the 50 minute train trip.
Arriving at the modern Central Station I was blown away by the magnificent space and view of new city centre buildings emerging outside the large windows. A large video screen takes you on  a short tour of the city. Sadly the weather was not good, and although we did manage to walk about and take a boat cruise through the harbour, the weather did influence our enjoyment of the city. (Although some of my Facebook friends wrote they found it to be an awful place, even on a sunny day)
A temporary installation by MRVDV http://www.dezeen.com/2016/04/07/mvrdv-the-stairs-giant-scaffolding-staircase-rotterdam-netherlands/

Some of the more recent look-at-me buildings as seen when leaving the train station
The tourist office recommended that we see the new market and cube houses, so we did. 
The market is a very strange building design, but with some colourful indoor murals. The cube houses are even stranger! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cube_house
 
While I'll write more when I have some time, here are a few more photos.
 
 
If you look closely you'll see the tower on the right has been modified to add opening windows (Rem Koolhaas Architect)
 
Is this what fashionable men will soon be wearing in Canada?
Many shop attendants are wearing suits with very short pants and sneakers

IJberg, FabCity and modern Amsterdam

I first visited IJberg on my Netherlands tour and wanted to return, if only to see this floating home development. IJberg is a new town, a 30 minute bicycle ride from the city centre. I have written a column for the Vancouver Sun about some of the innovations with application to Vancouver, including these floating homes and street rowhouses with laneway houses.
 


FabCity http://europebypeople.nl/fabcity-2 is a temporary sustainability exhibition that was set up in conjunction with Netherlands' serving as the European Capital for the first 6 months of 2016. Located on Java Island in the city’s Eastern Harbour District, it includes approximately 50 innovative pavilions, where students, professionals, artists and creatives are working on finding solutions to urban issues. I was impressed with the container housing solutions; a machine that makes houses out of cardboard (and other materials); a 3-D printer that makes concrete; and some other displays. While parts seemed a bit 'amateurish' it is well worth a visit.
One sustainability fair that is not worth bothering with is de Ceuvel. While promoted as the most innovative sustainability community in Europe, it isn't. Not at all. But we had an interesting lunch there, once we found the place. Don't bother!
Walking around the city I was very impressed with much of the new architecture. Some questions however: why are so many buildings so boxy, with no roof overhangs or weather protection at street level? Is the enforcement of the height limits just a bit too rigid? It's quite astonishing to see long rows of buildings, many of spectacular design, but all at exactly the same height. That being said, I do think Vancouver can learn from Amsterdam's modern architecture, especially the manner in which the old and new are brought together.
Here are some more pictures.

A sign in the window of a design firm along the waterfront. I think it's called 'OY'!